Garland, TX · Drainage & French Drains
Foundation Drainage and French Drains
Water is the reason most foundations in Garland move. Getting rain away from the house — with gutters, downspout extensions, regrading and French drains — protects the slab, and is often the cheapest part of a lasting repair.
01 — What this covers
The work itself
- French drain installation along walls where water collects
- Surface drains and catch basins for low spots in the yard
- Downspout extensions and buried downspout lines
- Regrading soil so it slopes away from the foundation
- Root barriers between large trees and the foundation
- Soaker hose layouts for watering the foundation in dry months
- Drainage plans as part of a slab or pier and beam repair
02 — Detail
Why water and clay are the whole story
Expansive clay changes volume with its moisture content. Too much water in one place and the soil swells or softens; too little and it shrinks and cracks. Foundations move when the moisture under them is uneven — so anything that dumps water against one part of the house, or lets one side dry out, eventually shows up as cracks.
The most common culprits are simple: downspouts that empty right at the foundation, gutters that overflow, flower beds that slope toward the house and trap water, and yards graded so that rain runs to the slab instead of away from it. A few of these together can keep one corner wet for days after every storm.
03 — Detail
French drains and surface drains
A French drain is a gravel-filled trench with a perforated pipe that collects water underground and carries it to a safe outlet — the street, a lower part of the yard or a dry well. It's the right tool where water soaks into the soil along a wall, or where a neighbor's yard drains onto yours.
Surface drains are different: grates and catch basins that collect water standing on the surface and pipe it away. Many lots need both. The key detail is the outlet — a drain is only as good as the place it sends the water, and that point should be lower than the inlet and far enough from the house.
04 — Detail
Gutters, downspouts and grading
Before anything is dug, check the roof water. A roof sheds a remarkable amount of rain, and gutters concentrate it at a handful of downspouts. Extending each downspout several feet from the house, or connecting it to a buried line that discharges away from the foundation, is inexpensive and fixes a lot of problems on its own.
Grading is the other basic. The soil next to the foundation should slope away from it. Over the years, mulch and new beds often reverse that slope; regrading restores it and keeps water from pooling against the slab.
05 — Detail
Trees and dry summers
Large trees near the house pull a lot of moisture out of the clay in summer. A root barrier — a deep vertical barrier installed between the tree and the foundation — limits how far the roots reach under the house without killing the tree. On the dry side of the equation, a soaker hose a couple of feet from the slab, run during long dry spells, keeps the soil moisture more even. The goal is steady moisture, never a flooded bed.
06 — Detail
Maintenance after the drains go in
Drains need a little attention to keep working. Check that downspout lines and drain outlets are clear after storms, especially in fall when leaves collect. Don't let new mulch or beds build the soil back up against the foundation, and keep an eye on any spot where water starts to pool again. A quick walk around the house during a good rain once or twice a year is the simplest test there is.
07 — Detail
Drainage as part of a foundation repair
If a house needs piers, ask what the plan does about the water that caused the movement. Many repair companies include drainage recommendations or work in the same estimate, and some warranties require reasonable drainage to stay valid. Fixing the cause at the same time as the symptom is how a repair stays a one-time job.
How we work
Step by step
- 01
Walk-around during or after rain if possible: where water comes from and where it collects.
- 02
Drainage plan: downspouts, grading, French or surface drains, outlet location, trees.
- 03
Written estimate, coordinated with any foundation repair recommendation.
- 04
Installation: trenching, pipe and gravel, connections, grading and sod or mulch repair.
- 05
Testing with water before the trench is closed, and notes on maintenance.
What it costs
Downspout extensions and regrading are the low end; French drains are priced mostly by length and depth and by how far the water has to be carried to a safe outlet.
Questions
Drainage & French Drains — asked and answered
Will a French drain fix my foundation?
It won't lift a slab that has already dropped, but it removes one of the main causes of movement. On mild cases, drainage alone can stop the problem from getting worse.
Where does a French drain send the water?
To a lower, safe outlet — often the street curb, a lower part of the yard or a dry well — always away from the foundation.
Should I water my foundation in summer?
In expansive clay, even moisture helps. A soaker hose a couple of feet from the slab during long dry spells is a common, inexpensive practice.
Do root barriers harm trees?
Installed properly and at a reasonable distance, a root barrier limits roots on the house side without killing the tree. An arborist's opinion helps for very large or valuable trees.
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